VectorInstant answer, when it was askedMatched an entry
The entries here don't directly address whether removing wood from one side always causes cupping. They do point to two likely culprits: stock held forced-flat during the carve springs back when released, and wood keeps moving even after it seems settled.
- Shim, don't clamp flat. If the board has any cup or rock, shim every rocking point so it sits dead still without being forced flat. Hot glue or CA the shims, and clamp or screw only where it doesn't bend the board. Clamping a slightly cupped board flat makes a carve that looks fine on the machine and cups the moment it's unclamped.
- Flatten before carving. Skim the surface flat first if the board isn't true, using a surfacing bit with a
Pockettoolpath over a rectangle just bigger than the board. Then flip and surface the second side. - Rough-flatten, wait, then finish-flatten. Acclimating for weeks is right. For precious stock, flatten roughly, let it sit again, then do the final flatten before carving.
- Don't let a carve sit mid-job. Overnight humidity and temperature shifts change the surface. Split long carves into complete toolpaths per session, and keep the work clamped and untouched between sessions.
Where this came fromHow do I flatten a warped board or live-edge slab on the CNC?Can I pause a 40-hour carve overnight, and how do I split a huge 3D carve into sessions?Walk me through my first 3D carving: which bits, what stepover and feeds, and the toolpaths in order
Vector is AI and can make mistakes. Independent resource, not affiliated with or endorsed by Vectric Ltd. Answers are Kinetic Carving's own explanations of publicly documented information, and sources are linked for verification. Verify settings on scrap before cutting.
